Among the women of Bihar, the practice of embroidering quilts, or
sujni kanthas, to give as gifts on festive occasions goes back to the 18th century. At the time of childbirth, patches of different coloured cloth from old saris were sewn together with a simple running stitch
(sujni) to make a quilt (also called
sujni) for the newly born. Often, pictures of gods and goddesses were embroidered with a finer but similar stitch, and hung on walls. This was a craft essentially practised by Rajput women for domestic consumption. But like many traditional crafts
, sujni production had virtually disappeared until it was revived in 1988 by- ADITHI and its products adapted to an urban market.
Craft
Rural women in the Muzaffarpur district of north Bihar now continue to embroider in the
sujni kantha tradition, using a combination of a fine running stitch with the chain stitch. They produce furnishings such as bedspreads, wall hangings, cushion and bolster covers, as well as clothing items like saris,
dupattas and
kurtas.
Initially their designs depicted the daily rhythms of their own lives and their surroundings: trees, animals and birds. Increasingly,
sujni designs are beginning to express social and political themes.
Keywords
bihar, Cloth, Embroidery, kantha, Textiles