In Andhra Pradesh, ikats and brocaded silks are woven under the supervision of master weavers in their homes. The richer the silks woven the better the wages; the weaver who makes plain silks does not earn much. Tie-and-dye weaving is concentrated in Pochampalli in Nalgonda district and Chirala in Guntur district. The craft involves a delicate and elaborate process in which the warp and the weft are tied and dyed according to a predetermined design. Both cotton and silk are used. A special item called telia rumal (literally ‘oily handkerchief’) is made at Pochampalli; the yarn is dipped into an oily solution before weaving. The patola or ikat saris of Pochampalli have a large variety of geometrical designs; the patterns are more pronounced at Chirala. A great variety of cotton lungis or cotton sarongs (draped around the waist ) for men are also woven in Andhra Pradesh, often with some ikat designs in the body or on the border. The exquisite saris and telia rumals of Pochampalli and the Asia rumals of Chirala were exported from India even in ancient times. Now the market for them has increased to a great extent and the craft flourishes to this day in these centres.
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