Natural Fibre Craft of Kerala,
The natural fibers that are woven in Kerala include banana stem, sisal, aloe, screw pine and pineapple. The products made are tablemats and bags in different shapes and sizes. Banana fibre was also once used to make saris called near pattu, which is no longer being done. The extraction of yarn begins with retting, decortication and scotching - processes that are employed to seperate the fibres from the shoots, leaves of roots of plants and trees. Tools used include scissors, Needles, Nail frames and the Frame looms. The process may be manual as in the extraction of banana fibre or mechanical as in that of sisal fibre. Once extracted, the fibre is graded to ensure quality control and then usually carded and plaited to create the final products. The fibres may be dyed to generate specific visual impact; the current interest in eco friendly products has created a potentially huge export market for vegetable dyed natural fibre products. Local demand for these products is generally restricted to the season of the Sabarimalai pilgrimage and the many temple and church festivals. Production centers are Chertala in Alappuzha district; Anavoor, SreeKariyam, Neyyattinkara, Nediyamcode , Perumkadavila and Parassala in Thiruvananthpuram districtTools
The natural fibers that are woven in Kerala include banana stem, sisal, aloe, screw pine and pineapple. The products made are tablemats and bags in different shapes and sizes. Banana fibre was also once used to make saris called near pattu, which is no longer being done. The extraction of yarn begins with retting, decortication and scotching - processes that are employed to seperate the fibres from the shoots, leaves of roots of plants and trees. Tools used include scissors, Needles, Nail frames and the Frame looms. The process may be manual as in the extraction of banana fibre or mechanical as in that of sisal fibre. Once extracted, the fibre is graded to ensure quality control and then usually carded and plaited to create the final products. The fibres may be dyed to generate specific visual impact; the current interest in eco friendly products has created a potentially huge export market for vegetable dyed natural fibre products. Local demand for these products is generally restricted to the season of the Sabarimalai pilgrimage and the many temple and church festivals. Production centers are Chertala in Alappuzha district; Anavoor, SreeKariyam, Neyyattinkara, Nediyamcode , Perumkadavila and Parassala in Thiruvananthpuram districtTools
Natural/ Vegetable Dyes of Kerala,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/ Vegetable Dyes of Tamil Nadu,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/ Vegetable Dyes of Uttar Pradesh,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/ Vegetable Dyes of West Bengal,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/Vegetable Dyes of Andhra Pradesh,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/Vegetable Dyes of Karnataka,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural/Vegetable Dyes, Indigo etc. of Gujarat,
The sources of natural dyes are flowers, berries, roots, rinds, wood, lichens, and the gall of plants which yield earthy colour tones of browns and buffs. Crimson and scarlet hues are obtained from the female insect, cacti and lac, which is found encrusted on the branches of some specific trees. Purple is obtained from the trumpet shell. Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places. The British introduced synthetic dyes in India in the nineteenth century; the use and production of natural dyes began to decline from that point. Apart from textiles, vegetable dyes are also used to colour wood, mats, basketry, pith, ivory and leather. The names of colours prevalent were piyaji (onion skin), sumai (blue-black), basanti (yellow), asmani (sky-blue), neel (blue), badani (beige), sonali (golden), abir (red), and dhani (yellow green). Botanical Name Colour Part Used 1. Acacia catechu Maroon, Brown Wood extract 2. Artocarpus integrigolia Yellow Sawdust 3. Bixa orellana Orange Seed 4. Punica granatum Khaki Rind 5. Curcuma longa Yellow Rhizome 6. Diospyros peregrina Pink Fruit 7. Nyctanthes arbortristis Orange Stem 8. Tagetes patula Yellow Petals 9. Acacia Arabica Pink Sawdust 10. Terminalia chebula Grey Ripe and unripe fruit 11. Rubia cardifolia Brick Red Root 12. Terminalia arjuna Beige Bark 13. Ceriops roxburghiana Salmon Pink Bark 14. Cedrela toona Pink Sawdust Some other key dye-sources are as follows: - Yellow is obtained from root of the plant Morinda persicalfolia. The roots are cut and boiled along with salt; the resultant solution dyes the yarn an even shade of yellow. - Brick-red is extracted from the leaves of the plant, Rhyncosatia sp; the leaves are ground into a paste to which lime juice is added gradually till the colour turns brick-red. - Black is obtained from the plant, Lenia grandis by crushing the fruit. The fruit is boiled in water with salt till the solution turns gray. The yarn is then immersed and boiled in this solution till it turns gray; after being buried in clay soil for 24 hours, it turns black. - Orange is obtained from the bark of Phyllanthus emblica, Lenia grandis and Artocarpus lakoocha. The bark of the three plants are combined in equal portions and soaked in water for 15-20 days. When the solution turns orange, the yarn is immersed for a few hours, stirred occasionally, washed and sun-dried. - Charcoal-gray is obtained from the plants, Careya arborea, Lenia grandis and Eugenia Jambolana when the bark of the three plants are combined in equal portions and steeped in a vat for 15-20 days. When the solution turns orange, black potters clay is added in 1:6 proportion. The yarn is soaked for 5 hours, washed and sun-dried. - Red is obtained from Morinda persicalfolia by powdering the root and mixing it with water. The yarn, treated with mustard oil, is soaked in the solution for three days, wrung and dried in the sun. - Red is also obtained from the seed of the plant, Bixa Orellana where the seeds are soaked with turmeric paste and lime along with yarn for three days. Yarn is then boiled, washed off and dried. The process is repeated to deepen the colour. - Dark brown is obtained from the plant, cocos mucifera from the coir, where it is boiled with a turmeric powder till it turns brown. The yarn is soaked for a few hours, wrung and sun-dried. - Pink is obtained from Ceriops roxsburghiana by boiling the bark with soda till the solution turns pink. Yarn is boiled in it for dyeing, after which it is washed and dried in the sun. - Blue-black is obtained from the leaves of Indigofera sumatrana where the leaves are soaked in the water and fermented. A small amount of bamboo ash is added to it. Yarn is put in and boiled till it turns blue-black; repeated boiling deepens the colour. The vessel type used for dyeing yarn has to be chosen carefully. Earthenware is suitable, but its porous nature results is absorption of liquid dyes. Each dye has to have a separate container. The best containers for dyeing are those made of copper or stainless steel; these materials do not react with the dye stuffs and are very hardy. Earthen vessels are ideal for scouring, washing and bleaching. Natural dye solutions like kasmi and neel can be stored in earthen containers. The size of the containers chosen depends on the amount of material to be dyed at a time. Cost benefit analyses have shown that vegetable dyes are more economical than imported chemical dyes; catechu, the most expensive of the natural dyes is well below the cost of an equivalent synthetic dye. The average costs of natural dyes are 10-20 per cent that of synthetic dyes. If use of natural dyes increases, it will help in the revival of traditional crafts, based on indigenous sources.
The sources of natural dyes are flowers, berries, roots, rinds, wood, lichens, and the gall of plants which yield earthy colour tones of browns and buffs. Crimson and scarlet hues are obtained from the female insect, cacti and lac, which is found encrusted on the branches of some specific trees. Purple is obtained from the trumpet shell. Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places. The British introduced synthetic dyes in India in the nineteenth century; the use and production of natural dyes began to decline from that point. Apart from textiles, vegetable dyes are also used to colour wood, mats, basketry, pith, ivory and leather. The names of colours prevalent were piyaji (onion skin), sumai (blue-black), basanti (yellow), asmani (sky-blue), neel (blue), badani (beige), sonali (golden), abir (red), and dhani (yellow green). Botanical Name Colour Part Used 1. Acacia catechu Maroon, Brown Wood extract 2. Artocarpus integrigolia Yellow Sawdust 3. Bixa orellana Orange Seed 4. Punica granatum Khaki Rind 5. Curcuma longa Yellow Rhizome 6. Diospyros peregrina Pink Fruit 7. Nyctanthes arbortristis Orange Stem 8. Tagetes patula Yellow Petals 9. Acacia Arabica Pink Sawdust 10. Terminalia chebula Grey Ripe and unripe fruit 11. Rubia cardifolia Brick Red Root 12. Terminalia arjuna Beige Bark 13. Ceriops roxburghiana Salmon Pink Bark 14. Cedrela toona Pink Sawdust Some other key dye-sources are as follows: - Yellow is obtained from root of the plant Morinda persicalfolia. The roots are cut and boiled along with salt; the resultant solution dyes the yarn an even shade of yellow. - Brick-red is extracted from the leaves of the plant, Rhyncosatia sp; the leaves are ground into a paste to which lime juice is added gradually till the colour turns brick-red. - Black is obtained from the plant, Lenia grandis by crushing the fruit. The fruit is boiled in water with salt till the solution turns gray. The yarn is then immersed and boiled in this solution till it turns gray; after being buried in clay soil for 24 hours, it turns black. - Orange is obtained from the bark of Phyllanthus emblica, Lenia grandis and Artocarpus lakoocha. The bark of the three plants are combined in equal portions and soaked in water for 15-20 days. When the solution turns orange, the yarn is immersed for a few hours, stirred occasionally, washed and sun-dried. - Charcoal-gray is obtained from the plants, Careya arborea, Lenia grandis and Eugenia Jambolana when the bark of the three plants are combined in equal portions and steeped in a vat for 15-20 days. When the solution turns orange, black potters clay is added in 1:6 proportion. The yarn is soaked for 5 hours, washed and sun-dried. - Red is obtained from Morinda persicalfolia by powdering the root and mixing it with water. The yarn, treated with mustard oil, is soaked in the solution for three days, wrung and dried in the sun. - Red is also obtained from the seed of the plant, Bixa Orellana where the seeds are soaked with turmeric paste and lime along with yarn for three days. Yarn is then boiled, washed off and dried. The process is repeated to deepen the colour. - Dark brown is obtained from the plant, cocos mucifera from the coir, where it is boiled with a turmeric powder till it turns brown. The yarn is soaked for a few hours, wrung and sun-dried. - Pink is obtained from Ceriops roxsburghiana by boiling the bark with soda till the solution turns pink. Yarn is boiled in it for dyeing, after which it is washed and dried in the sun. - Blue-black is obtained from the leaves of Indigofera sumatrana where the leaves are soaked in the water and fermented. A small amount of bamboo ash is added to it. Yarn is put in and boiled till it turns blue-black; repeated boiling deepens the colour. The vessel type used for dyeing yarn has to be chosen carefully. Earthenware is suitable, but its porous nature results is absorption of liquid dyes. Each dye has to have a separate container. The best containers for dyeing are those made of copper or stainless steel; these materials do not react with the dye stuffs and are very hardy. Earthen vessels are ideal for scouring, washing and bleaching. Natural dye solutions like kasmi and neel can be stored in earthen containers. The size of the containers chosen depends on the amount of material to be dyed at a time. Cost benefit analyses have shown that vegetable dyes are more economical than imported chemical dyes; catechu, the most expensive of the natural dyes is well below the cost of an equivalent synthetic dye. The average costs of natural dyes are 10-20 per cent that of synthetic dyes. If use of natural dyes increases, it will help in the revival of traditional crafts, based on indigenous sources.
Natural/Vegetable Dyes, Indigo etc. of Rajasthan,
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Natural dyes are the colorants extracted from naturally available resources like mineral ores and vegetables. Vegetables are commonly used colouring matter in the form of roots, leaves, barks and flowers. Evidence of dyeing goes back to Neolithic times and thus craft of dyeing with vegetable colours has long been imbibed in the cultures of early civilizations. Natural dyeing has symbolized the traditional practises of craftsmenship - of sustainable relation between the ecosystem and the human civilization. Natural dyes and pigments are used in painting, dying and printing on textiles, on walls, in Ayurveda and cooking among other uses. It is the dexterity of dyers in India that is famed as they have been renowned for the brilliance of the colours and correct processing of the fabric. The colouring matter extracted from the natural dye matter and which is then in combination with locally available auxiliaries applied on the textile. Mordanting is a crucial precursor to dye absorption as the dye doesn't have direct affinity with the textile. Locally available resources are used as mordents, while water adds on the unusual differential characteristic to dyeing in different places.
Neel-patra – Sheets of Black Paper,
Black ink is used while writing on harital paper. However, if the text is to be written with gold or silver ink, sheets of dark or black paper, locally called neel-patra, are used. The beautiful, black, and glossy surface of the neel-patra provides a dramatic backdrop for the writing in gold or silver ink. PROCESS In order to produce the black colour, a proportion of wax and lamp-black is added to the mixture of manasila and harital, and the whole mixture is well stirred and applied over specially chosen, high quality sheets of Daphne bark paper. The rest of the process is the same as followed in making the harital sheets. These black sheets of paper become soft and pliable when exposed to the sun.
Black ink is used while writing on harital paper. However, if the text is to be written with gold or silver ink, sheets of dark or black paper, locally called neel-patra, are used. The beautiful, black, and glossy surface of the neel-patra provides a dramatic backdrop for the writing in gold or silver ink. PROCESS In order to produce the black colour, a proportion of wax and lamp-black is added to the mixture of manasila and harital, and the whole mixture is well stirred and applied over specially chosen, high quality sheets of Daphne bark paper. The rest of the process is the same as followed in making the harital sheets. These black sheets of paper become soft and pliable when exposed to the sun.
Nettle Fibre Weaving of Uttarakhand,
The Almora district of Uttarakhand comprises of the Kumaon region that has evergreen forests, meadows acid lakes. The Almora town is situated on the banks of river Kosi. The Kumaonis are the farmer communities who terrace their fields. Spinning and weaving is a common domestic activity. The shawls of the Almora region are made with nettle fibres that grow in abundance in the region. The bichchu booti or nettle plant grows wild as undergrowth particularly in Almora and Chamoli region. These stem fibres are pliable and thus easily woven into fabric. The nettles are harvested by the villagers and stem retting is done in the river for a few days. Once the stem softens and swells the stalk is beaten and thrashed on boulders to release the fibres. The fibre is bundled up and sold to the weavers. The weavers treat the raw fibres as per the finish required. The fibre is brown in appearance. It is spun into yarns and knitted or woven into shawls. The other products made of nettle fibres are stoles and bags.
The Almora district of Uttarakhand comprises of the Kumaon region that has evergreen forests, meadows acid lakes. The Almora town is situated on the banks of river Kosi. The Kumaonis are the farmer communities who terrace their fields. Spinning and weaving is a common domestic activity. The shawls of the Almora region are made with nettle fibres that grow in abundance in the region. The bichchu booti or nettle plant grows wild as undergrowth particularly in Almora and Chamoli region. These stem fibres are pliable and thus easily woven into fabric. The nettles are harvested by the villagers and stem retting is done in the river for a few days. Once the stem softens and swells the stalk is beaten and thrashed on boulders to release the fibres. The fibre is bundled up and sold to the weavers. The weavers treat the raw fibres as per the finish required. The fibre is brown in appearance. It is spun into yarns and knitted or woven into shawls. The other products made of nettle fibres are stoles and bags.
Nettur Petti/ Jewellery Boxes of Kerala,
The Nettur Petti, the jewellery caskets are a mark of the aristocratic upper class Kerala woman. The nettur petti as the name says was once produced in Nettur which is in the region of Malabar near Kozhikode. Production center now include besides Nettur, Thiruvananthpuram and Chakai. Brass work as done on the Nettur petti is similar in vocabulary and craftsmanship to the highly ornamental brass locks or the chithrathazhu which may be seen on the main entrance doors of many o the old houses of Kerala. Rose wood and a local wood known as anjili is shaped and cut into different pieces that are joined together with high perfection through hand tools. The casket has a pointed top just like the gopuram of a temple and the base is a rectangle that supports the upper portion and also becomes the storage space for jewellery. Created using a combination of wood work, hand painting skills and manually shaped and chiselled brass joints, screws and locks; these products are the result of hours and skill. Each stage of this process is performed by hand, including the making of the nails used to fasten the wood pieces. After the box is varnished, the decorative polished brass elements are affixed onto it. Other than the velvet lined interior of the box and the elaborate brass fixtures that impart a sense of luxury to this already elaborately embellished product. While the petti has remained relatively true to its original form variations extend to detailing and the brass ornamentation, the intricacy of the painting on the wooden surface and the form of the petti.
The Nettur Petti, the jewellery caskets are a mark of the aristocratic upper class Kerala woman. The nettur petti as the name says was once produced in Nettur which is in the region of Malabar near Kozhikode. Production center now include besides Nettur, Thiruvananthpuram and Chakai. Brass work as done on the Nettur petti is similar in vocabulary and craftsmanship to the highly ornamental brass locks or the chithrathazhu which may be seen on the main entrance doors of many o the old houses of Kerala. Rose wood and a local wood known as anjili is shaped and cut into different pieces that are joined together with high perfection through hand tools. The casket has a pointed top just like the gopuram of a temple and the base is a rectangle that supports the upper portion and also becomes the storage space for jewellery. Created using a combination of wood work, hand painting skills and manually shaped and chiselled brass joints, screws and locks; these products are the result of hours and skill. Each stage of this process is performed by hand, including the making of the nails used to fasten the wood pieces. After the box is varnished, the decorative polished brass elements are affixed onto it. Other than the velvet lined interior of the box and the elaborate brass fixtures that impart a sense of luxury to this already elaborately embellished product. While the petti has remained relatively true to its original form variations extend to detailing and the brass ornamentation, the intricacy of the painting on the wooden surface and the form of the petti.
Ngotekherh of Mizoram,
Ngotekherh is an ancient customary puan worn by the Mizo community. Originally, this shawl had a plain white base with two narrow black stripes running along its edges. The white and black stripes along the perimeter of the cloth are known as ‘kherh’. The weavers indulge in delicate hand-sewing of the cloth on a loin loom. The Ngotekherh has gone through several changes and improvements to keep pace with the fashion trends of the modern Mizo lifestyle. The weavers have to maintain proper precision and detailed measurements to ensure a uniform design on the puan. Usually made with a combination of black and white yarns, the recent designs have experimented with a combination of red and white. These stripes run vertically along the length of the puan, often appearing as if dividing the shawl into parts. Such subtle innovations have caught the attention of the market outside the community, and have given the weavers a huge platform for the recognition of their craft.
Ngotekherh is an ancient customary puan worn by the Mizo community. Originally, this shawl had a plain white base with two narrow black stripes running along its edges. The white and black stripes along the perimeter of the cloth are known as ‘kherh’. The weavers indulge in delicate hand-sewing of the cloth on a loin loom. The Ngotekherh has gone through several changes and improvements to keep pace with the fashion trends of the modern Mizo lifestyle. The weavers have to maintain proper precision and detailed measurements to ensure a uniform design on the puan. Usually made with a combination of black and white yarns, the recent designs have experimented with a combination of red and white. These stripes run vertically along the length of the puan, often appearing as if dividing the shawl into parts. Such subtle innovations have caught the attention of the market outside the community, and have given the weavers a huge platform for the recognition of their craft.
Nigalo Smoking Pipe,
The hooka, an elongated and aesthetically decorated, traditional smoking pipe, could be seen in use all over Nepal till just a few decades ago. These artistically carved smoking pipes crafted in Baglung were famed all over.
The hooka, an elongated and aesthetically decorated, traditional smoking pipe, could be seen in use all over Nepal till just a few decades ago. These artistically carved smoking pipes crafted in Baglung were famed all over.
RAW MATERIALS
These elegant smoking pipes or hookas were made of nigalo, a variety of bamboo that grows mainly in Galkot, west of Baglung. The nigalo (typified by Drepanostachyum intermidium) is a small-statured species of bamboo with small culms. This long tubular plant has its sections separated by nodules and has bushy leaves at its tips. It is found between 1,200 m and 2,400 m and can be cultivated. In the past a large proportion of the population of Baglung earned their living by pipe-making; however it is now difficult to find many pipe-makers.
The hookas traditionally had a silver plate positioned at either end with the plate on the smoking end carved to resemble the mouth of a lion or tiger.
PROCESS & TECHNIQUE
To make the pipe, the nigalo branch is straightened. and its curved tube is smeared with rape-seed oil along the nodes and warmed over a fire along its entire circumference. As the pipe becomes sufficiently hot, one of its ends is pressed with the leg while the other end is stretched by hand to the required extent. This work requires great dexterity and skill. This process is repeated till the tube is fully straightened. Care is taken not to char the tube during this stretching operation. Thereafter, the tube is rubbed with ash, washed with water, and dried in the sun.
Next, the carving on the pipe is done. Two kinds of tools are generally used for the carving: a sharp tool is plied to engrave rings on the pipe at a distance of 2 to 3 inches; and a pointed tool is used to engrave various designs between the rings. The tools used in the carving are of indigenous origin. The designs include the pictures of men, animals, birds, flowers, trees, serpents, and other intricate artistic patterns and designs. The carver is, in fact, an artist. The designs do not become visible in the beginning as the carving is initially done superficially on the pipe. Two days of hard work is required to engrave designs on the pipe.
Powdered charcoal is mixed with oil to form a paste - the paste is applied over the designs and rubbed vigorously with a rag. The charcoal powder gets jammed into the scratched lines. When the oil is wiped off with a rag, the designs become distinct - the charcoal penetrates into the carved areas. The colour of the designs on the pipe is black and with the rubbing and wiping the pipe develops a glossy veneer.
The pipe is next drilled through along its inner nodes. A long iron wire is heated till it is red-hot and then inserted inside the pipe. The hot wire causes the inner nodes to burn. (This part of the process causes a lot of smoke.) This drilling is usually done from both ends. The pipe is thick at one end and thin at the other. The pipe, which is now ready, is taken to a goldsmith who fixes silver plates at on both ends. The plate on the end that is connected with the hooka is called kulpi.
The making of smoking pipe shows how seamlessly can technology and art blend. If the carving aspect of the pipe is art, and dyeing and straightening aspects constitute technology. The application of charcoal as a dye can be considered as a significant achievement.
Nirmal Furniture of Telangana,
Nirmal Furniture is made from teakwood and has floral designs painted in a golden colour. The Nizams of Hyderabad were very impressed by this style of craftsmanship, and some Kshatriyas or woodcarvers received their royal patronage. Since then, the art has flourished. The artisans imbibed this art from their forefathers and have followed the same procedure from generation to generation. The furniture is made from teakwood and the process begins with cutting and carving the wood into the required shape . Sandpaper is rubbed on the surface to smoothen it, and then a coat of primer and lappam is applied. Once the surface is smooth, varnish is applied and allowed to dry. Finally, the floral designs are painted on the item.
Nirmal Furniture is made from teakwood and has floral designs painted in a golden colour. The Nizams of Hyderabad were very impressed by this style of craftsmanship, and some Kshatriyas or woodcarvers received their royal patronage. Since then, the art has flourished. The artisans imbibed this art from their forefathers and have followed the same procedure from generation to generation. The furniture is made from teakwood and the process begins with cutting and carving the wood into the required shape . Sandpaper is rubbed on the surface to smoothen it, and then a coat of primer and lappam is applied. Once the surface is smooth, varnish is applied and allowed to dry. Finally, the floral designs are painted on the item.
Nirmal Painting and Products of Andhra Pradesh,
This artform has been in existence from the early 14th century and was patronised by the Deccan nawabs. It takes its name from the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. The craft is practised by a group of artisans known as naqash who traditionally paint scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as well as from Mughal and Kangra miniatures. They work with plain or embossed designs and obtain the indigenous colours from minerals, gum, and herbs. The master craftespersons of Nirmal originally made gold colour from herbal juices. The paintings are in gold on dark backgrounds and are strikingly beautiful. The abundant use of gold adds a metallic richness to the ware. Popular items include jewellery and trinket boxes made of poniki wood, ganjifa boxes, playing cards, and khan chibba (food tray covers). The craft is also practised at Hyderabad. A large variety of products, including furniture, screens, panels, wall plaques, lamp stands, bowls, cigarette boxes, trinket boxes, and ashtrays, are made. Nirmal toys are also very popular and are closely imitative of natural forms. Poniki wood is used for small products and teak wood for larger items. At one time Nirmal artisans used to make religious figures, but now only animals and birds are made. Birds are shown in flying formations of three or more. Wall plaques with painted flying birds are also common, as are brightly coloured depictions of fruits, vegetables, and animals. The gloss and sheen give an exclusive touch to these toys and dolls.
This artform has been in existence from the early 14th century and was patronised by the Deccan nawabs. It takes its name from the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. The craft is practised by a group of artisans known as naqash who traditionally paint scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as well as from Mughal and Kangra miniatures. They work with plain or embossed designs and obtain the indigenous colours from minerals, gum, and herbs. The master craftespersons of Nirmal originally made gold colour from herbal juices. The paintings are in gold on dark backgrounds and are strikingly beautiful. The abundant use of gold adds a metallic richness to the ware. Popular items include jewellery and trinket boxes made of poniki wood, ganjifa boxes, playing cards, and khan chibba (food tray covers). The craft is also practised at Hyderabad. A large variety of products, including furniture, screens, panels, wall plaques, lamp stands, bowls, cigarette boxes, trinket boxes, and ashtrays, are made. Nirmal toys are also very popular and are closely imitative of natural forms. Poniki wood is used for small products and teak wood for larger items. At one time Nirmal artisans used to make religious figures, but now only animals and birds are made. Birds are shown in flying formations of three or more. Wall plaques with painted flying birds are also common, as are brightly coloured depictions of fruits, vegetables, and animals. The gloss and sheen give an exclusive touch to these toys and dolls.
Nirmal Toys and Craft of Telangana,
Nirmal Toys are unique because of their natural forms, light weight and durability. They are mainly crafted by hand except for the cutting machine that is used for cutting the wood in the initial stage of production. The skilled craftsmanship of the artisans and the use of instruments like “taapi” and "tochan” are special features of these toys. The production process involves: Seasoning of the wood Cutting of the wood Joining of parts (using “chintambali”) Drying Filing Application of “paatu”(a mixture of tamarind seed paste and water), which is used to coat fine cotton cloth; this reinforces the joints of the articles. “Paatu” is then applied on the entire body of the toys with the help of a “taapi”. This layer of cloth and “paatu” ensure that no cracks appear in the joints later. Application of “suddamatti” (clay found on riverbeds or near canals), water and gum on the form with hair brushes.
Nirmal Toys are unique because of their natural forms, light weight and durability. They are mainly crafted by hand except for the cutting machine that is used for cutting the wood in the initial stage of production. The skilled craftsmanship of the artisans and the use of instruments like “taapi” and "tochan” are special features of these toys. The production process involves: Seasoning of the wood Cutting of the wood Joining of parts (using “chintambali”) Drying Filing Application of “paatu”(a mixture of tamarind seed paste and water), which is used to coat fine cotton cloth; this reinforces the joints of the articles. “Paatu” is then applied on the entire body of the toys with the help of a “taapi”. This layer of cloth and “paatu” ensure that no cracks appear in the joints later. Application of “suddamatti” (clay found on riverbeds or near canals), water and gum on the form with hair brushes.